Ibri to Nizwa cont…

     The goat & livestock section, which is probably the most exciting area, where all the action occurs, demon-strates traditional domestic and public life all in one. The men and women will haul, pull, carry, drag their live-stock in the outside ring of the area where the livestock is "shown off." It's all very crowded but it all has an order. Once enough people have seen the goods for sale, the sellers carry the animals one by one into the center ring where the buyers form another circle on both sides. In effect, the seller and his animals prance in the middle circle, while the buyers form an inner and outer ring. The seller shouts, good ears, strong legs, good fat, 5 riyals, 6 riyals, who will buy this from me? Anytime anyone looks interested they will plunge their arm wrist deep into the crowd of people and attempt to get the animal or the seller's attention - since yelling is no use, everyone is shouting like at an auction floor - the seller will stop and the potential buyer will pull on the tail, tongue, ears, smack the animal's bottom to hear it bray, moo, cluck or what not. This is done very quickly as the circle keeps moving and the name of the game seems to be sell high, buy low and fast. Small groups of men and women will

                                  The Jebel Shams Cliff Walk:
                                                                                                article by Brien Holmes; photos by R. Morris

     Thirteen members completed the Jebel Shams Cliff Walk on the Thursday before joining the rest of the Al Ain members for the Nizwa – Manah tour Friday. For most of them, it was their first time to enjoy the spectacular sights of the gorge and Wadi Ghoul. The group all stayed at the campground on top of the mountain, most in the chalets but some camping.
      In recent years, the government of Oman has developed a number of hiking trails on the mountain, including a hike from the base of the mountain to the starting point of the cliff walk. Other trails head off in the ‘alpine’ country of the mountain, one of the highest in the Hajar range.
      The trail this season showed some signs of rainfall earlier in the year with small portions of the trail washed out and rebuilt. The hikers paused at the lookouts where stone cairns have been constructed by successive groups of hikers over the years.

I E W Revisited
                                   Al Wathba Wildlife Sanctuary
                                                                                             Article by MaryAnn Pardoe

Established in 1998 as the first legally recognised sanctuary in the Abu Dhabi emirate, the area covers 5 km2 and includes natural and semi-natural habitats split into three lakes. The first lake is fed by the cleaned water from the sewage plant. This runs into a brackish lake and finally into the furthest lake which is saline, fed by run off water from local farm irrigation.
The area supports more than 250 species of birds, more than half of the species found in the UAE. Also10spp of mammals, 13 species of reptiles and 40 species of plants. Several of the non-migratory species resident here include Black Winged Stilts, Bulbuls, Sun Birds and Reed Warblers. The sanctuary is ideally situated between Europe and the further destinations of migratory birds and provides a vital resting spot for these species.
John Newby, the director of the sanctuary, explained that their 5year plan included environmental education, select tourism for bird watchers and naturalists, and ecological research. A visitor centre is anticipated within the next year.
     Water quality is monitored automatically at five sites around the sanctuary. This equipment is solar powered and downloads information on temperature, ph and water levels directly onto a computer. Changes in ph and temperature can affect the population of Brine Shrimp which are the main food source for flamingos.
     One of the few tasks where external control is necessary is the cutting back of reed growth in the less saline areas. Left to their own devices the reeds would quickly encroach into the lakes. Reeds can be used for animal fodder or the manufacture of charcoal tablets, baskets or barasti fencing.
     Although this environment is on the fringes of suitability for flamingos, attempts have been made since 1993 to encourage these majestic birds to breed. Flooding has caused the greatest problems as the birds nest only a few centimetres above the water level and nests can get washed away. To prevent this, raised islands have recently been created and 30 to 40 flamingo pairs attempted to breed this year. Unfortunately the heavier rain resulted in eggs floating in to the lake. The next step appears to be the construction of a sluice gate to give accurate control of water levels. In spite of all the problems, flamingos did manage to breed a few years ago.
     Over 150 pairs of Kentish Plover are breeding at Al Wathba and these are being studied by researchers from Bath University, UK. Either one of the parent birds care for the eggs and young, or alternatively both, or neither. The researchers hope to determine what influences this parental behaviour. So far it appears that older birds are more responsible!
     While touring the area we saw the Desert Hyacinth in full flower. This parasitic plant is pollinated by insects and dies off several times each year. We were also fortunate to see a Spiny Tailed Lizard. About 50cm long, this large lizard lives in groups of 2-3 and hibernates in winter, closing off the entrance to its burrow so that it appears uninhabited. There is a population of 12 - 15 on the site.
     The trip was fascinating and we extend our sincere thanks to John Newby and his colleagues, Khaldoun Kiwan (manager of Al Wathba Reserve), Salim Javed (Avian Ecologist) and Andreas (research student), for their interesting tour. I have a copy of the bird list for the area which John Newby has kindly authorised for private use. Please e-mail me if you would like a copy at maryannepardoe@yahoo.co.uk. .

BOOK REVIEW –
FROM THE HOLY MOUNTAIN
- By William Dalrymple
Published in UK by HarperCollins 1997

article by Geoff Cosson

     His description of following this route today is really interesting, engagingly written, with maps and photographs. He describes the residents of forgotten monasteries in present-day Turkey, Syria and Egypt, who still eke out an existence, following ancient rituals, belonging often to Christian sects which seem more like abstruse survivals of the medieval world of doctrinal schisms. In recent times, however, the traditionally tolerant Muslim world has become a more difficult place to live. Until fairly recently (1980s), there were substantial numbers of Christians following the ‘Nestorian’ doctrine in Iraq, but most of these have now emigrated. The Syrian Orthodox Church has mostly disappeared (except for its unlikely descendant in Kerala). Huge numbers of Greek & Armenian Orthodox adherents once lived grandly in Alexandria and elsewhere along the Mediterranean coast, until the rise of modern Turkey (1920s) and of Nasser’s Egypt (1950s). The Maronites in Lebanon have lost their battle for dominance.

     These communities are generally in decline today, so Dalrymple’s journey may be harder to replicate in future. This is a totally enjoyable book, which casts new light on the evolving history of our region. It shows amongst other things that early Christianity was one new sect among many, and that some early writers saw Islam as another one of these new (Christian) sects. Early Christians prayed like today’s Muslims, and both communities shared common ‘saints’, just as Islam of course reveres the Old Testament fathers and Christ himself.

     This wonderful book provides a whole new perspective on our region’s history.